22 APRIL 2023 - SCOTT GIBSON | WATCH SPECIALIST WRITER
Star of the Show: The DiaStar
Rado has a long history of innovating, whether it be in materials or in design. One of the most iconic watches in their history is the DiaStar, which celebrated its 60th anniversary last year. As part of this, the line was reinvigorated with several new additions to the collection.
Despite these new additions, Rado was not done with the DiaStar just yet. For this year, Rado has introduced a DiaStar featuring another staple from Rado’s wider collection; a skeleton used dial, giving this 60s icon a thoroughly modern update.
On the case
One of the most instantly recognisable parts of the DiaStar throughout the years is the shape of the case. This helmet shaped case extends over the end of the bracelet, covering the end links attaching the two. This gives the head of the watch an increased presence in the overall profile of the timepiece, a presence that is accentuated by the profile of the bezel, which stretches across the whole of the case. Starting with a flat ring that tops the case, the bezel then falls away to meet the edge of the case. Despite this presence, the DiaStar remains compact, with a 38mm case size ensuring it does not become overbearing.
The bezel is also where Rado flex their material muscles on this watch. In the past, Rado has enhanced technologies to manufacture more scratch resistant materials, whether it be metals or ceramics. For the bezel of the DiaStar, Rado has combined the two into its patented Ceramos, which blends ceramic and metal alloys together. This combination gives Ceramos the best aspects of both, creating a scratch resistant material like ceramic while keeping the feel and mirrored finish of a highly polished metal like stainless steel, albeit with a finish that has more of a grey tone which matches the movement and dial features.
The remainder of the case and the bracelet that it sits upon are made from stainless steel, the slight contrast between the bezel and the rest of the watch breaking up the silhouette and drawing the eye towards the centrepiece of the watch, the case and the oversized Ceramos bezel.
Rado’s Skeletons
An open worked dial is nothing new for Rado. They have a long history and wide collection of watches that utilise open heart or skeleton dials, giving the wearer a look into the watches beating heart. For this new DiaStar Skeleton, almost all of dial is removed, revealing the complexities of the R808 movement beneath. The R808 has become Rado’s movement of choice for skeleton watches, thanks to the innovative bridge design that allows for the complete removal of the dial and a far better view into the inner workings of the watch.
The only dial that remains is a chapter ring featuring a minute track that runs along the very edge of the movement and the hour markers, which appear to hover above the movement, suspended in place to give this watch high legibility despite the lack of a full dial. The marker at 9 o’clock is clipped slightly to make room for the signature golden anchor suspended on a red jewel bearing, a logo detail present on Rado watches with an automatic movement.
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The R808 movement itself is also skeletonised, revealing all of the most important aspects that literally make this watch tick. The balance wheel sits proud at 12 o’clock, with the rhythmic oscillations that power the watch fully visible to its wearer. Elsewhere little details jump out, such as the large main spring that is exposed down towards the 5 o’clockposition and the various red jewels that act as bearings for the moving parts. By cutting away so much of the dial, these parts that would usually be hidden from view now jump to the fore to offer an unparalleled view of modern watchmaking.
All of this is viewed through the DiaStar’s unique and intriguing sapphire crystal. Where other manufacturers may use a domed or flat glass, the one on the DiaStar features a faceted design, which is centred around a central square section at the top of the glass which then falls away to meet the bezel. Adding even further to the complexity of the dial is the presence of the brands logo and collection name, moved to the crystal due to the lack of any dial for it to be on.
Original is best?
Rado's DiaStar collection has always had a retro look and appeal, which this new model only adds to. The introduction of the skeleton dial though gives the line a modern twist, elegantly bringing together the 60s flare of the original and the slick modern looks of the 21st century Rado collections. The contrast between these two design cues could have been tricky to combine, yet Rado has more than delivered. For anyone looking for a watch that combines past, present and future, this DiaStar may just be the one for you. If you're wanting to learn more about watches, book an appointment in-store or online for help from our experts.
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