Hands on: Ernest Jones joins TUDOR for its 2022 Watch Event

30 MAY 2022 | EDITOR - ERNEST JONES

To make it easy for you to stay up-to-date with its most anticipated timepieces, we visited the TUDOR townhouse to try out its new arrivals for 2022. Read on to find out more about this exclusive event and what you can expect from the brand that makes us born to dare.

The award-winning Swiss watch brand TUDOR offers mechanical watches with sophisticated style, proven reliability and unmatched value for money. Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, in the air, underwater and on ice. Today the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and Royal.

Earlier this month, we were invited to join a select number of TUDOR clients to view the latest watch collection at the brand’s exclusive townhouse. Located in the heart of London, just moments away from Piccadilly, the townhouse with its neo-classical façade and rich TUDOR red interior provided the perfect setting to host this special event.

We were able to get up-close-and-personal with the latest releases from this year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva and view some iconic TUDOR timepieces from the current and vintage collections. The atmosphere was electric as we all excitedly swapped watches and collector stories.

Here we recount our favourite styles so whether you are a die-hard vintage watch enthusiast, a lover of modern sports watches or looking for your first luxury timepiece, there's a TUDOR watch that will float everyone's horological boat this summer. Consider all boats suitably floated, these are the timepieces to watch out for...

The Black Bay Pro

What can we say? The TUDOR Black Bay Pro was an instant legend of Watches and Wonders this year and is hands down one of our favourites to add to our own personal collection. So, naturally, the new 39 mm technical model took centre stage at the event. A whole new aesthetic, including an instantly recognisable 24-hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and yellow 24-hour Snowflake hand, stood out from the crowd. Steel sports watches are typically the most sought after in the industry and the Black Bay Pro is no different. Interest in this collection has remained high since its release in March and it is easy to see why. Even collector forums are indicating that a 39mm GMT TUDOR watch, which the Pro is, is in high demand.

This watch – the explorer's watch – simultaneously plays to vintage fans and luxury watch first-timers. It's powered by the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with a built-in GMT function and COSC-certification. The matte black dial is perfectly complemented by the sand-coloured, luminous ceramic markers, which create a 3D effect in low light. The snowflake hands match the sand colour, while the pointed GMT hand stands out in a colour coined burnt yellow, not quite yellow, not quite orange. The steel fixed bezel adds to the utilitarian style of the watch. One of the most talked-about features is the new T-Fit clasp on the fly adjustment so you can always find the perfect fit. It's this fusion of heritage styling with modern production techniques that's a hallmark of the Black Bay line.

BLACK BAY 31, 36, 39 AND 41 S&G

We also got to see the new Black Bay 31, 36, 39 and 41 S&G models. These are much more than an update to the original models. They are completely new, inside and out. The cases are curvier and the soft silhouette is accentuated by a new smaller and rounder winding crown. The 5 piece link bracelet gets the new T-Fit clasp complete with polished gold trimmings, creating a watch that is both dynamic and elegant.

The inside is perhaps the biggest change, as the ETA calibres and the smiley face dial text make way for the straight lines of the chronometer-certified, in-house manufacturer movements. Nowhere is this a bigger deal than in the 31, which houses TUDOR’s first small-size manufacturer calibre, the MT5201. This opens a world of future possibilities as TUDOR is now able to power any size of watch, but it seems fitting this new movement should find a home in the Black Bay 31 S&G first. For some, the 31 really steals the limelight, but for us, we have no doubt the rest of the range will be just as loved.

The (Steel and) Gold standard

Lovers of a chronograph sports watch, may we have your attention, please. After being such a big success last year, 2022 sees Tudor produce a replica model of its Black Bay Chrono with a solitary difference – it’s added a retro-chic element in the shape of a champagne-coloured dial. A surprising release at Watches and Wonders, the TUDOR Black Bay GMT S&G, follows in the footsteps of the iconic blue and burgundy GMT (one of TUDOR’s best-sellers since its launch in 2018).

This isn't just a steel and gold bracelet fitted onto the existing GMT either, it has a completely new colourway to better suit the gold. The blue and burgundy bezel has been replaced with a black and brown bezel, with the 24-hour track now in gold. The gold hands and markers give this watch a warm, vintage appeal. We've been a champion of the mixed metal style for a while now (is anyone else a fan of the full-on Wolf of Wall Street vibe that the Black Bay Chrono S&G emitted when it first launched in 2019?) TUDOR keeps the polished look a little more low-key with satin-polished gold that's more in keeping with the sporty nature of the brand.

Sticking with S&Gs, TUDOR has also expanded the incredibly popular Black Bay Chrono range to include a new champagne sunray satin-finish dial S&G model. The subtle gold tones combine well to make this a great looking addition to the collection. Options await on the straps too: Choose a bracelet. Choose a fabric strap, or go for leather.

The Royal

TUDOR has expanded its Royal collection range with the launch of two new 28mm watches. Achieving the careful balancing act of nudging close to jewellery while still remaining within the boundaries of suavedom, the new watches feature the mother-of-pearl dials and are available either in steel or steel and gold. Under the lights on the stands, the sixty diamonds on each watch dazzle.

Rather than depending on gems, the Royal’s allure is chiefly accomplished through the interplay of differently finished metals. Most obviously, the bezel alternates between sections of finely packed grooves and sections of high polish. And then there’s the integrated bracelet, which interpolates its satin external and central links with polished intermediate links. The dial amplifies the sense of flourish with a sunray finish, applied Roman numerals, plus the options of a date-day complication, say, or subtle diamond hour markers. All in all, the Royal is bedazzling – so you can max out the glitz if you so desire (whilst falling on the right side of restraint).

Two and a half hours after we arrived, we made our way out, excitedly chatting about what we'd just seen. After a night filled with talking with experts, collectors, watch aficionados and enthusiasts alike (not to mention the amazing watches), it's easy to see why there is so much buzz around TUDOR and its iconic timepieces.